Clamp Dye - Kozii

Our Crafts

Clamp Dye

The magic of indigo clamp dyeing lies in its unpredictability—no two pieces are ever the same. The patterns formed during the process often resemble abstract art or reflections of nature, such as flowing water, clouds, or tree branches. Indigo itself, derived from the leaves of the indigofera plant, adds another layer of tradition, symbolizing natural beauty and elegance.

This method is not just about aesthetics; it reflects a sustainable approach to textile design. Rooted in slow and thoughtful craftsmanship, indigo clamp dyeing connects the maker and the wearer to centuries-old traditions, bringing a sense of heritage and authenticity to each piece.

A bit about history

Indigo clamp dyeing has a rich history rooted in the ancient textile traditions of East and South Asia, particularly India, China, and Japan. Its origins can be traced back thousands of years to when early artisans discovered the unique properties of indigo dye, a pigment derived from the leaves of the indigofera plant. This deep blue dye became highly prized not only for its vivid color but also for its natural resistance to fading, making it a staple in traditional fabrics and garments.

In India, this method was integrated into the broader tradition of resist-dyeing techniques, such as dabu (mud resist) and tie-dye. In Japan, a similar approach is seen in itajime shibori, which translates to “clamped resist dyeing.” Chinese artisans also used variations of the clamp-dyeing process, often creating bold, symbolic designs that reflected cultural values or elements of nature.

A bit about the technique

The process begins with preparing the fabric, which is carefully folded, pleated, or layered in specific ways to create the desired patterns. The folded fabric is then clamped between carved wooden or metal blocks, which act as resist barriers. These blocks are often etched with intricate designs or geometric shapes, ensuring that specific parts of the fabric remain untouched by the dye.

Once the fabric is secured, it is submerged in a vat of indigo dye, which is derived from the fermented leaves of the indigofera plant. The dyeing process itself is magical—indigo starts as a yellowish-green liquid, and only when the fabric is exposed to air does it oxidize and transform into its signature deep blue hue. Artisans often repeat this dipping and drying cycle multiple times to achieve the desired depth of color, with the resist areas remaining undyed, preserving the original fabric color.

Clamp Dye has been used in the following collection

Our Crafts

In these changing times, it is important to remember that no project makes sense if it doesn’t create some kind of sustainable network that closely safeguards all the people involved and its environmental impact along the production process. Kozii invites you to learn more about the techniques applied to our productions.